Convertible Top Frame Repair
#1
Thirty some years ago I put a German Haartz Sonneland canvas top on my 66 roadster. I was tired of the cheap vinyl tops of the time, and as I drove my car all the time, I wanted a top that would look good and last.

30 years later and 150,000 plus miles, it was time for a new top. I have some pictures to share with you of what I found under my old top.

I knew that one of the rivets on the frame was not working as the weatherstrip on the drivers side would not line up, leaving a gap between the window and the two window weatherstrips that bolt on.

First I must say that the material used (tackboard) 45 years ago is far superior to the "fiberboard" sold now. The original board was fiber board sewn between two leather strips.

I found some rust that I have to deal with . The problem that many face with their tops is the nylon bushing that centers the rivets. When it breaks, the top mechanism does not work correctly and you will have uneven weatherstrip problems.

It usually is not the rivet as I found out, but the bushing.

Next, you can order the rivets from most vendors, but none listed the nylon bushing. Without it , you will not be able to fix the problem and be able to set the rivet.

Jerry Sullivan of "Sully's Tops" http://www.SullysTops.com 1-800-451-3998 Fresno, CA

Gave me a call and he has the bushings. He actually manufacturers the rivets for the vendors who sell them. Funny they don't list them.

He put them in the mail and said, " send me the check when you get them" Very nice man and I would use him for any parts that may be needed to restore the top frame. He is a 17 year NCRS member



Setting the rivet. You need to clamp the rivet, and frame tight, block the rivet and smack the end of the rivet with the hole with a big hammer. Flatten it a bit and pine it over.

I will let you know how that works, I ordered extra rivets just in-case

32 year old top

[Bild: Framerepairbefore013.jpg]

Bottom , top , sides , rivet hole , rust areas , straps , fiber tack strip of frame

[Bild: Framerepairbefore001.jpg]
[Bild: Framerepairbefore005.jpg]
[Bild: Framerepairbefore004.jpg]
[Bild: Framerepairbefore003.jpg]
[Bild: Framerepairbefore006.jpg]
[Bild: IMG_0400.jpg]
[Bild: Framerepairbefore015.jpg]

Original tack strip

[Bild: Framerepairbefore017.jpg]
[Bild: Framerepairbefore010.jpg]


Rivet and nylon bushing

[Bild: Framerepairbefore012.jpg]

Weatherstrip kit and padding to be put on after canvas is installed

[Bild: Framerepairbefore011.jpg]

I am having the top installed after seeing the way the tacks have to be driven. Speedy did it 30 years ago for me and he will do it again on the 12th.

I hope the frame comes out OK, I am doing the work and I am always leery of my work.

Just finished up the frame this afternoon. I drive the car to the installer tomorrow. Weather is going to be cold but dry.

As show in pictures, my frame needed two nylon bushings replaced. The hard part is the setting of the rivets. You can order the rivets from the usual vendors, but it is not the rivet that goes, it is the bushing. You need a special setting tool and the ability to block the rivet. Palmers Springs Shop, making springs and carriages since 1860's had a 70 year old part worker who could set it for me.
A large hammer and anvil helped.

Sully's Tops in Fresno CA was the only place I could find to get the bushings. Jerry makes the rivets for vendors.

Rivet and bushings

[Bild: IMG_0423.jpg]
[Bild: IMG_0420.jpg]

Before

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After

[Bild: Framerestorecompleted007.jpg]

Sandblasting rust

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Old frame

[Bild: Framerepairbefore005.jpg]

Restored frame on car ready to top installation

[Bild: Framerestorecompleted004.jpg]

[Bild: Framerestorecompleted009.jpg]

[Bild: Framerestorecompleted008.jpg]

Tomorrow pictures of top on car

[Bild: rearview.jpg]

[Bild: sideview.jpg]
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#2
Die Passform sieht gut aus. Tolles Ergebnis.
The fit looks good, great result.
Hallo-gruen
Martin
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#3
Good job, looks good.

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#4
WOW ! Jack u are a real specialist !
grüße von Micha

https://www.rallye-engine.com
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#5
Zitat:Original von mad_mike
WOW ! Jack u are a real specialist !

I learned over the years. I am not a mechanic but grew up around cars. I knew that this last restoration would take 1000 or more hours to do. I could not afford 1000 x $75 per hour labor to have a corvette shop do it. $40,000 to $70,000 in labor alone plus $35,000 in paint, motor work.

So....I have learned from other forum members how to fix things. I like to pass what I learn on to others.

My total cost of my car since I bought it in 1970 is

$2,100 purchase price 1970

$53,000 spent on restorations over the last 42 years plus 1,500 hours of my labor



$54,100 car fix and restoration expenses for 42 years
$42,000 for petrol over 300,000 miles driven
$21,000 insurance 42 years

$117,000 spent enjoying car for 42 years = $2,800 per year to drive the greatest car in the world for me !
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